There’s no shortage of amazing food in Copenhagen but Vækst really sticks in my memory. When I visited Copenhagen there was a heatwave that locals assured me was seriously unusual. The setting at Vækst is a beautiful, airy greenhouse-like space that, under the circumstances, turned out to be a perfect spot for lunch on my first day in town.

The vibe of the place is light and casual, matching the setting. I ordered the vegetarian lunch menu and both on paper and when it arrived to the table it also looked consistent with that theme. But I was totally surprised by how it tasted! Dishes with pea greens and asparagus at their base had a really great depth that made them both fresh and strangely rich. It’s always fun to be humbled by superficially simple-looking food, and I definitely had that feeling here. Vegetables, herbs, grains, and oils added up to something really satisfying. I really felt like I could taste each ingredient distinctly and together at the same time.

As an added bonus, this restaurant is relatively affordable—by Copenhagen standards at least! It’s true what they say about the cost of visiting here, but it’s well worth it. By the way, I thought the Design Museum was excellent, if you like that kind of thing!

Vækst Sankt Peders Stræde 34, 1453 København, Denmark

Visited: Summer 2018